The Coastal Red Miso Bouillabaisse at Beausoleil .
Photo:
Cedric Angeles
Baton Rouge
is known for many things. It’s home to Louisiana State University (LSU) and historic sites like the Old State Capitol and the Governor’s Mansion. It’s featured prominently in Janis Joplin’s hit version of “Me and Bobby McGee” and Garth Brooks’ “Callin’ Baton Rouge.” Its summer heat can leave a person limp like old lettuce, and its springs are nothing short of spectacular. In recent years, Baton Rouge has become one of the best places to eat in the state.
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PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Situated just over an hour northwest of
New Orleans
—Louisiana’s culinary star child—Baton Rouge has firmly established itself as a vibrant food town in its own right. The culinary scene in this city on the Mississippi River has matured significantly, blending inventive spots with beloved old-school favorites. While you can always find expertly fried Gulf seafood and Raising Cane’s chicken fingers (this is, after all, the birthplace of the
adored chain
), these bedrock traditions are now accompanied by fresh concepts from adventurous and inspired chefs.
International Influence
One of these spots is
Cocha
,
a downtown restaurant with a global menu that’s run by husband-and-wife team Enrique Pinerúa and Saskia Spanhoff. Cocha’s outdoor tables are a great match for the balmy Baton Rouge weather, but no matter where you sit, this place delivers excitement in the form of Spanish-style octopus, cachapa (corn pancakes) from Venezuela, Indonesian stir-fried noodles, and old-world wines.
Spanhoff, a Certified Wine Educator and former vino industry professional, and Pinerúa, a former Hollywood talent manager, took a chance on Baton Rouge after growing weary of the LA rat race. They viewed this city as a friendlier, more affordable alternative to Southern California and believed it was ready for seasonal menus that go beyond traditional Cajun and Creole fare.
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Herd-raised rack of elk with blackberry port gastrique, creamy polenta, and salad at Cocha.
Cedric Angeles
“I don’t think people consider Baton Rouge to be international,” says Spanhoff, a local native whose Dutch-immigrant parents relocated here decades ago for her father’s career. “But with the energy sector and the university, it is.”
A short distance away in the eclectic Perkins Road Overpass district,
Chow Yum
channels this area’s fondness for bold flavors into vibrant pan-Asian street food. Founded by executive chef Jordan Ramirez, the funky spot is known for ramen made with 24-hour-simmered pork broth and shareable dishes like steamed buns that are stuffed with soft-shell crab or hot-honey chicken.
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Executive chef Jordan Ramirez finishes a dish at Chow Yum.
Cedric Angeles
Ramirez hates to be pinned down, however, which is why you can find birria tacos with Szechuan-braised beef on Tuesdays and Viet-Cajun crawfish in the spring. The crustaceans are lacquered in lemongrass-garlic butter and boiled with edamame, potatoes, mushrooms, corn, and quail eggs.
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Outdoor dining space is abundant at BLDG 5 in Baton Rouge.
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The Harvest Board at BLDG 5 is a cornucopia of fresh bites.
Outdoor dining space is abundant at BLDG 5 in Baton Rouge.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
The Harvest Board at BLDG 5 is a cornucopia of fresh bites.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Another tasty option along this lively stretch is
BLDG 5
,
a hip farmhouse enclave created by Misti and Brumby Broussard, native Southerners who moved to Baton Rouge from San Diego. The concept here is global grazing and sipping, and the restaurant’s architectural-salvage vibe, with interlocking rooms and plant-draped patios, feels like a fancy rabbit warren. Their Harvest Board (which has 10 veggies plus spreads, grilled bread, and optional grilled proteins) rejects the notion that you can’t find healthy food in the Red Stick.
Making Waves
Given that Louisiana is the one of the largest seafood-producing state sin the country, it’s no surprise that Baton Rouge menus are overflowing with the Gulf’s bounty. Fried platters, po’boys, and rich gumbo are year-round mainstays at casual spots like
Phil’s Oyster Bar & Seafood Restaurant
and
The Chimes
.
But the true highlight appears in the springtime when other dishes pale in comparison to boiled crawfish. Lines of eager diners form for the hot mudbugs and requisite corn and potatoes at
Tony’s Seafood Market
, a behemoth presence in north Baton Rouge that was originally founded in 1959.
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Tony’s Seafood Market is the Gulf South’s largest seafood market.
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Po’boys are a specialty at The Chimes, a longtime post-LSU-game hangout.
Tony’s Seafood Market is the Gulf South’s largest seafood market.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Po’boys are a specialty at The Chimes, a longtime post-LSU-game hangout.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Seafood might be ordinary local fare around here, but it reaches more sophisticated heights at
Beausoleil Coastal
under the direction of executive chef Nicholas Palmer. This modern bistro prepares an ever-changing menu (including brunch, lunch, and dinner) of detailed dishes with Asian influences.
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The cheery dining room at Beausoleil Coastal.
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A smoked cocktail at Beausoleil Coastal.
The cheery dining room at Beausoleil Coastal.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
A smoked cocktail at Beausoleil Coastal.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Start with the Seacuterie Board, a tidy roundup of deviled lobster salad, smoked-tuna dip, saffron-infused boiled shrimp, and tequila-and-citrus ceviche, all scoopable with house-made saffron crackers. The Beausoleil Red Miso Bouillabaisse is a flavor tour de force that features shrimp, clams, scallops, mussels, lobster, and blue crab swimming in a rich red miso broth.
From Relaxed to Refined
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The Eye of the Tiger pie at Elsie’s Plate & Pie.
Cedric Angeles
Baton Rouge’s Mid City neighborhood has surged in popularity recently thanks to numerous restaurant openings.
Elsie’s Plate & Pie
,
housed in a historic post office, is one of the area’s most visited eateries. It focuses on sweet and savory pies made with a pastry recipe from proprietor Paul Dupré’s late grandmother, Elsie Marie Campeau Rupe. Dupré and his team still prepare her specialty by hand daily and use it as the base for crawfish and meat hand pies, seafood pot pies, and a rotating list of over 200 dessert options. S’mores, coconut cream, and a blueberry-lemon flavor that’s called The Eye of the Tiger are among the favorites.
The city’s prevailing vibe is relaxed, but the new
Supper Club
offers a chance to break out your cocktail wear midweek. Inspired by swanky fine-dining establishments in Las Vegas and Miami, the dinner-only restaurant is known for its luxe menu, nightly DJ, and upscale dress code. A doorman welcomes diners past hundreds of floor candles into a windowless space festooned with lavish design elements, like sultry floral carpet by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders, glamorous chandeliers by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, and iridescent wall chains by Spain’s Kriskadecor.
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Wagyu Nigiri Sushi at Supper Club.
Cedric Angeles
The restaurant is one of only a handful in the United States to receive a license each year from Japan’s Sky Ranch to serve its top grade A5 Shichiri Wagyu. Raw slices of the marbled meat are warmed tableside on a hot stone and then finished with smoked and truffled salts. The rest of the menu is a catalog of indulgent fineries, from king crab bisque with crème fraîche to Beluga Hybrid caviar.
Local Legends
Old-school Italian restaurants are a key culinary component in South Louisiana, a vestige of early 20th-century chain migration that led Italian émigrés to these parts. Wildly popular, the family-owned
Gino’s Restaurant
has been around since 1966, attracts diners with generous wine pours and their famous arancini—balls of ground meat, rice, and peas rolled in cornmeal batter and deep-fried. Shortly after opening Gino’s, the late founder Grace “Mama” Marino modified the dish for local palates with a douse of red gravy. She also created a seasonal version that features fresh crawfish tails and red cream sauce.
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Italian arancini gets a Creole makeover at Gino’s Restaurant.
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Eggs Louisianne at Louie’s Cafe.
Italian arancini gets a Creole makeover at Gino’s Restaurant.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Eggs Louisianne at Louie’s Cafe.
PHOTO:
Cedric Angeles
Breakfast and brunch are big here in Baton Rouge, with boundless opportunities to enjoy Benedicts, brunch burgers, spicy Bloody Marys, and local Community Coffee.
Louie’s Cafe
near LSU has been a beloved institution since 1941, drawing extra-long lines on the weekends for off-menu animal-shaped pancakes and Eggs Louisianne (poached eggs enrobed in a shrimp-and-crawfish cream sauce) served atop toasted English muffins.
The story of this area’s constantly evolving food scene is continued at the new iteration of
Jubans
, one of Baton Rouge’s oldest fine-dining spots, founded in 1983. During the pandemic, the restaurant closed for a major overhaul and returned sporting stylish themed rooms and a menu by chef Chris Motto that’s less classic Creole and more modern American.
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The Hallelujah Crab, fried soft-shell crab with seafood stuffing, Creolaise sauce, and tartar mashed potatoesâ¨is a specialty at Jubans.
Cedric Angeles
Try the Lobster Risotto with caper relish or the Ora King Salmon served over quinoa tabbouleh with strawberry-kiwi relish. Be sure to take note of the historic portraits in the moody “hidden” library called the Tigre Lounge. They are actually digital renderings of LSU sports heroes dressed in Elizabethan costumes, a wink-wink design move that says, “Hey, look a little closer. This is still a hometown spot.”
Where To Stay
Origin Hotel Baton Rouge
: One of the city’s newest lodging additions has 89 boutique-style rooms and a rooftop deck that overlooks LSU’s Tiger Stadium.
Watermark Baton Rouge
:
The former Louisiana Trust & Savings Bank is now a hotel with an on-site restaurant adorned with murals painted by artist Angela Gregory.
The Stockade Bed & Breakfast
: This homey inn on the grounds of a historic Civil War stockade is known for its generous morning meals and lush property.
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