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Photo :
Tara Massouleh McCay
Les îles grecques font partie de la liste des voyages à faire, mais si des vacances qui font exploser le budget ne sont pas prévues cette année, il y a un endroit beaucoup plus proche de chez vous qui peut servir de substitut parfait. Tarpon Springs, en Floride, située sur le golfe du Mexique, juste au nord de
Tampa
, pourrait facilement se substituer à Mykonos avec un tout petit effort d’imagination. La ville a vu le jour lorsque des bancs d’éponges ont été découverts au large de ses côtes au début des années 1900. En 1905, des plongeurs grecs ont été amenés dans la région, et le reste appartient à l’histoire. Les Grecs et l’industrie des éponges ont construit Tarpon Springs et, un siècle plus tard, ces deux éléments sont restés au cœur de la ville. En fait, Tarpon Springs compte l’un des pourcentages les plus élevés de Grecs américains aux États-Unis.
Lorsque vous pressez du citron frais sur votre poulpe grillé tout en écoutant la table voisine converser en grec, vous risquez d’oublier où vous êtes. Et lorsque vous vous promenez sur le boulevard du Dodécanèse en regardant les bateaux arborant des drapeaux grecs s’amarrer au quai, la Floride est peut-être l’endroit le plus éloigné de votre esprit.
En grandissant,
The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants
et
Mamma Mia!
étaient deux de mes films préférés, principalement parce que je ne pouvais pas me passer des magnifiques villages grecs dans lesquels ils se déroulaient. Aussi, lorsque j’ai eu l’occasion de réaliser quelques-uns de mes rêves de vacances grecques ici même, dans le Sud, j’ai sauté sur l’occasion. Voici les meilleures choses à faire pour un week-end de rêve à Tarpon Springs, en Floride.
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Quoi faire
Visitez les quais éponge
Imitez le choc exaltant de l’atterrissage en terre étrangère et immergez-vous dans une nouvelle culture en commençant vos vacances à Tarpon Springs par les docks historiques d’éponges. C’était autrefois le centre de l’industrie florissante des éponges de Tarpon Springs, et des milliers d’éponges étaient livrées aux quais par les bateaux d’éponges chaque semaine.
Aujourd’hui, les bateaux d’éponges ne sont plus aussi fréquents, mais c’est toujours le centre d’activité de la ville. Des restaurants grecs bordent les rues animées, des boutiques de cadeaux et de souvenirs vendent des éponges fraîchement tirées du golfe, et il y a toujours la queue devant les nombreuses boulangeries. Passez du temps à flâner dans les 30 boutiques spécialisées du village commercial en plein air
The Sponge Exchange
, prenez une photo avec le smiley en éponge à l’extérieur de
Sponge Diver Supply
, et achetez du savon à l’huile d’olive fait maison à
Lori’s Soap & ; Sponge
.
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If you’re curious to learn more about Tarpon Springs’ history and heritage, book a sponge diving boat tour with
St. Nicholas Boat Line
. You’ll cruise around the Anclote River, while owner and Tarpon Springs native George Billiris shares the history of sponge diving in Tarpon Springs and even sends a live diver (dressed in traditional diving equipment) to the ocean floor to retrieve a sponge.
A five-minute drive from the Sponge Docks, you can learn more about Tarpon Springs at two downtown landmarks: the
Tarpon Springs Heritage Museum
and
Saint Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral
, both of which are open to the public. After you visit the museum’s exhibits, take a stroll around Spring Bayou at Craig Park, which is located just outside the museum. The deep blue waters are the sight of the town’s annual Greek Orthodox Epiphany Celebration and cross-diving ceremony.
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Tara Massouleh McCay
From the park, you can walk a few blocks and find yourself in the center of downtown Tarpon Springs. You won’t see as much Greek influence here, but in its place, there’s plenty of charm and lots to explore including coffee shops, boutiques, and antique stores. For modern home goods, gifts, and local art, stop into
Sunshine Supply Company
, or get a hit of nostalgia at
Replay Museum
, where there’s a collection of 100 vintage arcade and pinball games that adults can play all day for $14.
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If your idea of a Greek vacation involves a place in the sand and an uninterrupted view of the ocean, Tarpon Springs can deliver on that as well. Head to
Fred Howard Park
, a 155-acre natural area that’s popular for fishing, kayaking, canoeing, and more. Take the mile-long causeway out to the white-sand beach at Howard Park Beach. Set up for the day and enjoy splashing around in the calm waters of the Saint Joseph Sound. If the Atlantic Ocean is calling you deeper offshore, you can take a quick ride to the neighboring town of Dunedin and join a boat tour with
Parrotdise Express
. The four-hour excursion will take you to a semi-private island where you can snorkel to see colorful fish, rays, and seahorses. You can also dive for sand dollars, starfish, and shells in every shape, size, and color imaginable.
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Tara Massouleh McCay
The Best Places To Eat In Tarpon Springs
The only thing that rivals the views in Greece is the food, and the same is true in Tarpon Springs. Here, you’ll find some of the most
authentic Greek cuisine
anywhere off the actual islands. For a crash course in all things Greek dining, put yourself in the capable hands of the Salivaras family, who own Mykonos and Dimitri’s on the Water. The brother-sister team of Koula and Dimitri took over the family restaurant business from their parents and are committed to serving fresh, high-quality ingredients and traditional recipes. You may have to wait for a seat at
Mykonos
, but it’s well worth it for the exceptional chargrilled octopus, dressed simply with a squeeze of lemon, and the flaming saganaki cheese. The portions here are huge, but if you’ve got a crowd, order the Lamb Fricassee, a caveman-sized lamb shank covered in sauteed endive and swimming in an egg-lemon-dill-sauce.
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Across the street at
Dimitri’s on the Water
, you’ll find a more upscale dining experience with a view of the Anclote River and a menu of steakhouse favorites, as well as updated Greek specialties. Order the Whole Fish of the Day Plaki Style, you’ll get dinner and a show when a waiter will debone it for you tableside and drizzle it with creamy lemon sauce. There are dozens of other worthy Greek restaurants to check out at the Sponge Docks, but one that’s worth deviating from the tourist track for is
Katerina’s Taverna & Grill
. The traditional pork gyro, wrapped up with tomato, onion, tzatziki, and fries, is excellent, as is the Avgolemono (Greek chicken lemon soup).
For traditional Greek sweets, join the all-hours-of-the-day line at
Hellas Bakery
, where you’ll have the difficult job of choosing from an overwhelming display of Greek pastries and desserts that stretch far beyond baklava. We recommend picking an array, but then snagging a box each of Melomakarona (Greek Christmas honey cookies) and Kourabiedes (Greek shortbread-style butter cookies) to take home.
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Greek food is the ticket in Tarpon Springs, but don’t leave town without making a reservation at
Rusty Bellies
, a waterfront restaurant that started as a family fishing business and seafood market. Three generations and three decades later, a table at Rusty Bellies is one of the most sought-after in town. Most of the seafood served at the restaurant is brought in fresh every day by the family’s own fishing and shrimping boats. The portions are gargantuan, and the freshness is unmatched. The menu features everything from seafood tacos and sandwiches to steak and chicken. Order the E. Sea Rider (grilled shrimp skewers, sea scallops, and your choice of fish) for a taste of it all.
The best breakfast in Tarpon Springs can be found at downtown’s
Toula’s Trailside Café
. Located along the Pinellas Bike Trail, it’s a popular spot for hungry riders as well as locals looking for a hearty homemade breakfast or lunch. From sweet and savory crepes to Benedicts, stuffed French toast, and a Greek-inspired scrambler called the Bougiourdi (feta, tomatoes, sweet and hot banana peppers, basil, garlic), you’re guaranteed to leave happy.
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If you want to celebrate your pseudo-Greek vacation with a tipple, Tarpon Springs has plenty of places to grab a pint (especially for its size). Options
include Two Frogs Brewing Company
,
Brighter Days Brewing Company
,
Unrefined Brewing
,
Sponge City Brewing
, and
5 Branches Brewing
. There’s also
Tarpon Springs Distillery
, a retirement project of couple Barry and Lisa Butler that took on a life of its own once their spirits started winning awards. The small-batch artisanal spirits range from a hot and dirty gin distilled with green olives, juniper, coriander, and peppers to rye malt whiskey. The tasting room’s bartenders are endlessly creative, which means your cocktail could feature anything from the traditional Greek liquor ouzo (distilled in house) to aquavit.
Tara Massouleh McCay
The Best Places To Stay In Tarpon Springs
Though it’s got a big personality, Tarpon Springs remains a small town, so lodging options are somewhat limited. If you want to live like a local, there are several private rentals on Airbnb and Vrbo that can suit anything from a
Big Fat Greek Wedding
-style family reunion to a getaway for two. Another great option is
The 1910 Inn
. Located in a seafoam-painted Victorian home with stacked circular porches, the inn is hard to miss. Inside, the home’s been restored to its original glory and is filled with one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. Innkeeper Annie Samarkos is a Tarpon Springs native and perfect person to introduce you to her little slice of Greek paradise.