14 places to climb in the Gorges du Tarn

Escalade dans les Gorges du Tarn

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, the gorges du Tarn are home to some great spots to try your hand at climbing or perfect your technique. Discover the 14 most beautiful places to climb in this region!

Are you a climbing enthusiast who knows all about handstands and flagpoles? Are you just starting out and would like to try out your first harness in a pleasant setting? Located in Lozère, in the Cévennes National Park, more precisely in the Grandes Causses massif, the gorges du Tarn are undoubtedly among the ten most beautiful and interesting climbing sites in France. Some of these spots are even internationally renowned. With seven hundred dolomitic limestone routes, some of them over fifty meters long, there’s something for every taste, age and ability.

Whether you’re looking for difficulty or simple pleasure, whether you’re looking for wild spots or lively sites, whether you’re climbing with family or friends, you’ll find something to suit you!

Grab your harness and let’s get climbing in the Tarn gorges!

Also read in the Occitanie guide :

1. Parking lots

Located south-east of Séverac-le-Château, Parkings is a limestone spot for all levels. However, it may not be ideal for children, as the routes start at 5c. For the more experienced, the Body Building sector comprises six routes ranging from 6c to 7c+. The site has a south-west/north-west exposure, and there’s no need to walk to get there.

2. Les Baumes Hautes

Just a few kilometers east of Séverac-le-Château, the Baumes Hautes spot is a must for experienced climbers. With routes spanning almost seventy-five meters, difficulty levels ranging from 6a+ to 8a+, and two adventure routes, Les Baumes Hautes is an iconic site you just can’t miss! In summer, you’ll appreciate the morning shade. On the other hand, the site is not very suitable for children, despite the relatively short approach walk.

The Oasif and Planète Causse sectors are particularly interesting for physical climbing on limestone with holes. The large overhang at Oasif is impressive. You’ll find routes ranging from 7a to project. You can try « Flexion », a 7a route thirty meters long.

In the Planète Causse sector, the climbing is just as physical, with routes in 7 average, fairly long, but with a slight overhang.

3. Cirque des Vases

The Cirque des Vases site is suitable for all levels of climber. Beginners can try their hand at climbing on 3c routes. Experienced climbers will enjoy the 8a routes in the Roche décollée sector, one of the five terrain d’aventure routes, or one of the huge routes reaching a length of one hundred and forty meters! On the other hand, if you’re going up there with children, be sure to take into account the twenty-minute approach walk.

4. Reverend

Escalade au Révérend

Photo credit:Facebook – O2roche

Located not far from the village of Le Rozier, Le Révérend is accessible to novice climbers of all ages. In fact, the site is home to routes ranging from 4c to 8a, and requires just a five-minute approach walk.

5. Pas de Soucy

pas de Soucy

Photo credit:Flickr – Peter Frings

This spot, to the east of Séverac-le-Château, is ideal for good climbers, although there are routes from 4a upwards. The limestone cliff, facing south and east, is home to five sectors and over seventy routes, some of which are one hundred and twenty meters long. The average level is 5c, with some routes in 8. Allow ten minutes for the approach walk.

If you like climbing in the morning sunshine, come and discover the Noir Désir sector! You’ll find routes ranging from 6a to 7b, with an average length of twenty-five meters. Don’t miss « Djebly la mouche » in 6c, to get you started. You’ll also find some very nice 7a climbs.

6. Tarn Valley

The limestone cliffs of the Vallée du Tarn site are concentrated in two sectors called Muse and Piédestal. The sixty or so routes offer a pleasant playground for beginners, with 4+ routes, or for experienced climbers, with short routes rated at over 8. Allow five minutes for the approach walk.

7. Capluc

Capluc is a small spot near Le Rozier. It has only two 6a routes and is directly accessible.

8. Warm balms

Les Baumes Chaudes, escalade

Photo credit:Instagram – tanzafranza

Another not-to-be-missed climbing spot in the Gorges du Tarn, the Baumes Chaudes site comprises four sectors. If you’re a good climber, you’ll find a number of atypical 8-pitch routes and projects. If you like to start with a particularly physical bouldering pitch, try the « Mousse de houx blond ».

The Foetus Ecole sector is suitable for beginners. Allow five to ten minutes for the uphill approach. If the sun doesn’t scare you, it will be out to meet you in the late morning.

9. Meyrueis

Escalade à Meyrueis

Photo credit:Flickr – Gioconda Beekman

Named after the village next to which it is situated, Meyrueis is a spot for all levels of climber. You can climb anything from 3a to 9a! Routes vary in length, from ten to ninety meters! Allow five to twenty minutes for the approach walk.

10. Les Jasses

Not far from the village of Florac, come and discover the south-facing site of Les Jasses, home to a number of 6-pitch routes. Access to the site is well worth the effort, with a twenty-minute walk in between.

11. Cirque des Baumes

The Cirque des Baumes is the third most popular climbing spot in the Tarn gorges, after the Baumes hautes and Baumes chaudes, just east of Séverac-le-Château. Here you’ll find the route you’re looking for, if you like overhanging terrain. Although the site includes some 5a routes, it remains relatively dangerous for children. Allow between five and fifteen minutes for the uphill approach.

In the Tennesse sector, try out the eponymous 8b route, as well as the famous 8a« Ailes du désir ». Other routes are rated 8c.

On the Navire sector, you’ll enjoy a superb view after a fine climb over an overhanging overhang. In summer, the shade comes on quite quickly in the middle of the day. Try the 30-meter-long « Grandeur Nature » 7b, which ends on an overhanging ledge. If you’re looking for « resi », « El diablo perverso » is worth a try.

In the Amphitheatre area, you’ll appreciate the cool, even in summer. There’s something for everyone, but why not take up the challenge of « La Bohème », a rather original project.

12. The Unicorn

To the east of Le Rozier, the thirty or so routes on the La Licorne site will suit beginners and expert climbers alike. The former will have their first crack at 2+ routes, while the more experienced will dare to attempt 8a or adventure pitches!

13. Entre-Deux

Although there are some easy 5b+ routes, the Entre-Deux site is an interesting spot for seasoned climbers who enjoy vertical climbing. Located to the east of Séverac-le-Château, it offers routes up to 8c and projects. In the Güllich sector, you’ll find more bouldering-oriented routes.

Facing south, south-west and south-east, the site is open from spring to late autumn. However, it is not suitable for children. Allow five to ten minutes’ uphill walk to reach the routes.

14. Les Baumes Basses

The final must-see spot, the Baumes Basses site has the merit of being suitable for beginners and children, while giving the more experienced the chance to climb some mythical routes. There’s something for every level, from 4c to 8c, and even projects. The icing on the cake is the superb view. However, if you’re a fan of overhangs, don’t bother, as most of the routes are vertical. Allow five minutes for the approach ascent.

If you’re an experienced climber, you can’t miss the gigantic « De que fas aqui? » wall! Some of its routes are over a hundred meters long! Don’t miss the famous 8a+ « Space Odyssey », after warming up on the 6c+ « La Puerta del sol ».

Ready to climb in the Tarn gorges?